It will still allow you to have an idea of how much will be converted to sugar for your gravity, color and IBU’s. Therefore, you will not be able to use this recipe to set up on brew day, but it will be beneficial to have on hand throughout the brew. However, with BeerSmith knowing all the grains will not fit in your current brewing vessel, just plugging in 25.5lbs of a grain’s recipe will throw the needed sparge and mash water all off.
#Mash and boil beersmith software#
This software will also calculate out how much water you need for the mash as well as how much sparge water to reach the desired pre-boil volume. Using BeerSmith, a software where you can input your recipe, it will tell you all the info that you need as well as what your starting gravity, IBU’s, color, and if it is in style. In doing so, you create wort from your first running’s and then use it as your strike water for your second mash. My first step was to utilize a process called a reiterated mash. The first challenge I faced was, “How am I going to go about this? What technique should I use when brewing this big of a beer?” For those who have a smaller brewing vessel and only brew five gallons at a time, the necessary grains needed to achieve the desired gravity could cause some issues when you begin planning out your brew. The purpose of this brew was to see how far I can push my system, what my efficiency will be, how it will affect the wort and the end result taste. However, I worry the beer will then be too dry and not have that desired rich, deep, maltiness, and complexity from the roasted grain. It is known that you can add sugar until the desired gravity is met. It has always been a goal of mine to brew some 10 – 13% beer with my current system, and it came with some challenges. The most I ever put in a mash was about 17lbs which fills upright to the holes for the handle, which is used to lift the grain basket out of the boil kettle. With my current system being a Grainfather all in one system, it limits me to the amount of grains I can use for a single mash, so a high gravity beer was out of the question for me. In the event no tweaks come out of this discussion, should I assume the excessive ~1.5 (avg) water should come out of the sparge, as to keep the water:grist ratio accurate? I won't lie in that the added efficiency from excessive sparging is nice (with extending my boil times by adding the excessive wort, I average at least 87% efficiency, if not north of 90%), but at this point, I buy in bulk and time is more valuable to me than an extra couple of bucks.I am not always one to drink a lot of big beers but there is always a time and place for them. Has anyone had any "Aha!" moments where they realized they were measuring something incorrectly, such as the dead space? I filled the mash tun up, drained it through the manifold, and poured the excess into a better bottle bucket with gallon measurements to gauge my dead space, but even then, at half a gallon, I'm around on entire gallon off with excess wort, if not more.
Yet I always seem to have more wort after the mash than I need to go straight to a 60 (or 90) minute boil.Īre there some obscure settings I may be overlooking? To be thorough, he's my latest mash setup:ħ0 quart (17.5g) mash tun with a copper manifoldĠ.5 gallons lauter dead space (with checkbox checked for adjusting mash for dead space)Ģ.00 g/hour boil off (Yay un-restricted Blichmann boil coil)
I've checked my settings in Beersmith including dead space, mash tun size, boil off, etc. Every time I go to boil, my quantities are somewhere between 1.5-2+ gallons more than what I need to go directly from the mash tun to boiling hops. I've been using Beersmith for over 5 years now, brewing hundreds of batches with it, but I'm finally at the point where I'm tired of having excess wort I either toss/use for a starter/extend my boil with.
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